Celebrate Good Times: My number one restaurant has a sibling and it’s quite the beauty. A brand spanking-new build in York’s historic Museum Gardens, overlooking both flora, fauna, city walls and the river - scenically it’s got it all going on and the food’s pretty darned beautiful too; just as one would expect from the legendary Andrew Pern and his partner in crime, Justin Brosenitz.
Inside you can expect comforting furnishings as per the countryside original but with a city slickness in the form of glass walls, panoramic views and a few random modern design touches
But very much retaining the stamp of God’s Own County
Now then, flat cap masquerading as a bread basket
The menu reads similarly to the Harome original - more modern brasserie than refined gastro pub but with the Star’s signature homage to ingredient’s locality. They’re still taking their sourcing very seriously and it shows in the quality of the grub.
With that in mind, here we have risotto of local Estate shot red legged partridge, braised chestnuts, kale, Wensleydale crisp and truffle oil
Winter truffled macaroni, wilted greens, chanterelles and Hawes Wensleydale crust
Molten cheesey carby decadence right there
Oxtail terrine with ale’n’onion soup and Yorkshire puds. I’ve not had a warm terrine before, but love the fact that it’s essentially just a more artfully constructed, held-together slow braise. Chic and tasty.
Skinny fries, interspersed with gratings of crispy fried Moorland Tomme cheese and served with a truffle aioli
Cruise on the Ouse anyone?
Ok, maybe not in this weather
Sadly no puds on this occasion (and, regrettably, they don’t offer the fore-bearer’s Taste of Star Desserts in Miniature, sort it out Pern!) but there’s always next time and, I, for one, cannot wait.
The Star Inn The City, Lendal Engine House, York YO1 7DR